Articulo interesante sobre PERFORMANCE

How Your Engine Works, Air Flow and Horsepower
Fuente: K&N Filters

If you are curious about how to go about getting more performance out of your car, or just have been taking your first steps in modifying your car for more power, then this section is for you. In it, I will present a primer for safely and effectively increasing both the performance and efficiency of your car’s engine. If you are a more advanced enthusiast with a firm understanding of the fundamentals of car modifications and tuning, you’ll find the K&N White Papers at (KNFilters.com) to be a more technical look at the how’s and why’s behind the performance basics covered here.

While automotive enthusiasts often have visions of some day becoming a mad scientist in the garage, or perhaps part of a finely honed pit crew in an F1 race, the better analogy to start with is a chef baking a cake. So don your imaginary chef’s hat for a moment, and I’ll explain how working with the internal combustion engine is a lot like baking a cake.

Baking a cake requires four basic ingredients -- sugar, flour, eggs and butter – mixed in the proper amounts relative to how big a cake you will be making. So, too, the engine in your car relies on four basic ingredients -- air, fuel, spark and timing – mixed in the proper amounts relative to how much power you will be making.

Let’s say I was to begin baking a cake that serves two people. I would use a ratio of the four cake ingredients above as appropriate to the serving size. Now let’s say that as I’m in the process of baking my cake, I get a phone call and learn that two more friends will be stopping by, and I will need to double the amount of cake that I have. It is not enough for me to add twice as much flour, for example, without also doubling the amount of eggs, sugar and butter in equal proportions, or my cake will be ruined. It seems a simple point to make, but in reality, behind all the glitz and glamour of manufacturers selling expensive and shiny parts to bolt-on under your hood, this point is almost universally the first one that is overlooked. Note that adding power under the hood is never a matter of simple math (for example, that if advertising materials or magazine articles tell you that a certain exhaust adds “up to” 10 horsepower, an intake 5 horsepower, and a chip tune another 15 horsepower). While it is true that each component will add performance and compliment the others, the net result wills rarely, if ever, total 30 hp as the numbers might otherwise lead you to believe.

So, if your goal is to have your cake, and eat it too, be mindful of how parts you add under the hood change the ratio of ingredients to each other. So what is the correct ratio? Well, this is going be different for each car, depending on whether your car is outfitted with forced induction (for example, a turbocharger or supercharger), the compression ratio of your motor, and the tolerances that vary between manufacturers and according to the mileage and condition of your motor. However, most every engine has room to safely and reliably make more power, whether it’s double or triple the amount that they came with from the factory, or just a mild improvement, before experiencing added strain and a considerable impact on reliability and longevity. As a rule of thumb, a 5-10% increase from the amount of power your car makes, as delivered to you, is within the realm of safety. Nearly all engine components, regardless of the manufacturer, are designed with tolerances sufficient to withstand, on average, at least a 5-10% improvement in peak power.

I’m Ready for More… Where to Begin?

The internal combustion engine, as the name implies, relies on an explosion, or more specifically, a series of carefully timed explosions, to generate the power that moves your car down the road. These explosions consist of a mixture of air and fuel, ignited by spark, at precisely the right time. By altering the amount of air, fuel, spark, or timing, you are in effect creating a bigger explosion, and that bigger explosion generates more power. Done correctly, the bigger and more powerful explosion will also be more efficient, and can pay dividends in fuel mileage as well. A car with a mild to moderate increase in power doesn’t have to be any less fuel efficient or any less reliable than the one that makes less power – but it does take a careful chef, one that uses only the finest ingredients, and ensures that the car is well maintained and in sound mechanical condition. If your car is exhibiting any signs of fatigue, adding more power is going to make matters worse, not better. Make sure your car is in top condition before moving on to bake the bigger cake. After all, there is no point in pouring ingredients into a pan that has a hole in the bottom.

Assuming you are ready to begin adding power, the first ingredient to go into the mix is air. In essence, your engine is a giant air pump, and the quantity of air that your engine is able to take in from the intake, and expel out of the exhaust, is directly proportional to the amount of power you will be able to generate. One analogy that I have heard used in performance circles for some time now is a marathon runner. Imagine your car’s air intake is the marathon runner’s lungs. A restrictive intake is the equivalent of a marathon runner trying to breathe through a tiny straw. A less restrictive intake allows him to breathe freely, and run much faster.

Since most factory intakes are designed around cheap, disposable air filters that choke off the engine, a simple filter change to a high-flow air filter is often the very first modification involved in making more power. K&N offers two ways of allowing your engine to breathe more freely and efficiently. A K&N factory replacement drop-in filter allows you to simply exchange the disposable filter element inside your factory air box with a high-flow cotton gauze lifetime filter that provides excellent filtration, yet presents less of a restriction to incoming air than disposable paper filters. Although a K&N lifetime filter costs a little more initially, you’ll be saving money in the long run since you never have to change it.

Beyond a drop-in filter, K&N also offers a series of Intake Systems as a next step in performance. These replace not just the filter element, but the entire maze of restrictive factory intake piping, with an open element air filter connected to a short, straight section of piping designed to bring the maximum amount of air into your engine. Intake Kits are popular upgrades both because of the significant improvements these make to the amount of air available to the engine, as well as the fact that they free up space under the hood, allowing for a more aesthetically pleasing engine compartment, and easier access to other engine components during routine service and for other mechanical upgrades.

Good air in - bad air out

Because your car is breathing more efficiently with the K&N filter installed, it is also a good idea to remove the restriction in the exhaust path to allow the additional air to exit smoothly and efficiently after combustion. Since the exhaust system consists of several components, including the exhaust manifold, down pipe (on turbo cars), b-pipe (or intermediate pipe), and ultimately the portion behind the rear axle terminating with the muffler canister and exhaust tip (known as the axle back), these components can be upgraded either individually, or all at once. However, because catalytic converters are present in the exhaust path to help clean up hydrocarbons and reduce emissions, if the vehicle code in your jurisdiction requires the use of emissions control devices, there are likely regulations in place concerning the legality of exhaust modifications to the catalytic converters themselves as well as the exhaust system upstream from the catalytic converters (the exact location will vary from car to car). At K&N, we encourage respect for the environment, and strongly discourage tampering with emissions control devices. Further, emissions technology has advanced to the point where in most cases; only nominal gains can be achieved by removing or tampering with catalytic converters.

Adding fuel to the fire

With the first ingredient in our recipe for a bigger serving of power, the ratio of air to fuel has changed. Fortunately, most late model engines are run by a factory ECU (Engine Control Unit) capable of adjusting fuel delivery to maintain a consistent ratio of air and fuel, even with a more free-flowing intake and exhaust.

However, if you have added even more air than just the filter itself – for example, in the form or a turbocharger or supercharger, the additional air volume will be well outside of the factory ECU’s ability to compensate (known as its enrichment parameters). Depending on how much additional air is being brought into the engine, the necessary fuel upgrades may consist of higher capacity fuel injectors, a bigger fuel pump, and/or a rising rate fuel regulator. In addition, the ECU will need to be optimized for this hardware. I will discuss the ECU’s role later, but for the time being, it is sufficient to say that any time dramatic changes are made to the amount of available air or fuel, the ECU will need to recalibrate the air, fuel, timing (and where applicable, boost) maps accordingly. Failure to install the appropriate fuel support modifications and recalibrate the ECU will most likely result in an overly lean air fuel mixture (too much air, relative to fuel). A lean mixture will burn too hot and in turn, lead to detonation (a condition in which the air/fuel mixture is too easily lit off at the wrong time) and major engine damage will likely result.

We have ignition!

With the appropriate amount of air and fuel in the mix, the next step in our recipe for power involves controlling the spark that ignites the mixture. Earlier, I commented on the importance of ensuring that the car is in top shape before attempting to go for more power. Perhaps that best example of the importance of a properly maintained engine is the ignition system. If you have not changed your sparkplugs and plug wires recently, along with your ignition cap and rotor (for car’s with distributor equipped ignitions), chances are good that your air/fuel explosion is being compromised and that you are getting a less-than-optimal burn of your air/fuel mixture. Without making any other changes to your car, you should find a noticeable improvement in both power and mileage simply by switching worn ignition components to fresh ones. Of course, if you are adding significant go-fast hardware under the hood for dramatically increased air and fuel capacity, a simple set of factory specification components may not be enough to ensure a clean burn for the mixture. In this case, you will want a stronger spark, coupled with a cooler spark plug, to best avoid fouling your spark plugs with air and fuel that has not been burned, transferring too much heat into the cylinder head, and/or not getting a complete burn of the available air and fuel.

In most cases, this can be remedied by switching to a spark plug that it is one to two heat ranges colder than those that came with your car from the factory. The heat range of spark plugs denotes the thickness of the porcelain insulators, and thus, their ability to transfer heat away from the cylinder head. You will also want to consider running a larger plug gap to expose more of the air and fuel to spark during combustion. However, in order to do so without immediately fouling the plugs (drenching them in fuel and rendering the electrode ineffective) you’ll want to consider adding an after market ignition amplifier consisting of a control box that uses either the factory ignition coil (or coil packs), or upgraded coil packs, to provide more electrical capacity to your spark. Different systems operate on very different principles, including firing the spark in rapid succession bursts, or simply storing and sending more spark energy to the plug through the coil (or coil packs), or some combination of the two, but the general idea is the same – more spark, for a bigger and more carefully controlled explosion.

Not every car will need extensive ignition upgrades. Many cars have very robust factory ignition components capable of sustaining horsepower levels that are often as much as double or triple the factory power figures. However, for other cars, this area is very much an Achilles heel. When in doubt about whether your car will benefit from expensive ignition upgrades, consult with a qualified tuning professional (local shops that offer “dyno” tuning services should be able to point you in the right direction and there are some terrific resources online in the form of car message boards for nearly any make and model of car).

Timing…. Is Everything

Your car’s ECU (Engine Control Unit), is the central command post that dictates when, how and for how long these other ingredients (fuel, air and spark) are combined in the recipe for more power. Again, like baking a cake, it is not enough to say mix the batter and bake it, the recipe itself should tell you in what order the ingredients are added, and for how long to bake it at what temperature. Of course, this is a gross oversimplification of what the ECU is actually doing. The ECU is continually making calculations and adjustments within fractions of a second based on feedback it receives from the car’s sensors, including the oxygen sensor, airflow meter or mass air pressure sensor, knock sensor, coolant and air temperature sensors, and a host of other input variables. Imagine if baking the cake involved measuring the temperature in the room, altitude at which you will be baking, relative humidity that day, whether there is any background noise while you will be cooking and the relative quality of the butter and flour that you intend to use, and performing a series of algorithms before telling you what temperature to bake your cake and how long to keep it in the oven.

So how does the ECU make these determinations? Quite simply, it continually refers to a fixed set of base tables to which it references back in establishing the burn characteristics for the air/fuel/spark mix. These base tables need to be modified as the under hood components themselves are changed, and a qualified tuning professional can help advise you on the best method for making these changes, as well as point you to a dynamometer (or rolling road) to simulate the variables your car will encounter under load as you drive. Depending on a number of factors, including your budget, expectations, and the extent of your modifications, your preferred method of ECU control may be a piggyback controller that intercepts the 0-5 volt signal from your factory sensors and tweaks them before sending them on, a chip replacement or reflash that permanently installs a new set of maps in your ECU, or a standalone ECU that replaces your factory ECU entirely and allows the end user (or your tuner) to continually retune the car by laptop or hand-held controller.

Power is Served!

And there you have it… the fundamentals to making more power – a tasty treat if there ever was one. Of course, just as the bigger cake isn’t always the healthiest meal if you overindulge and don’t exercise, more power for your car is not always the healthiest thing for it if you aren’t prepared to make some additional adjustments. At the top of your list, any time you add power, consider upgrading the brakes, at a minimum with quality pads, lines and fluid. After all, the faster you go, the more stopping power you’ll need. Next, if you drive a manual transmission car, consider a clutch upgrade (or a beefier torque converter if you have an automatic) to cope with the extra strain that the motor is exerting, along with some high performance engine mounts and suspension bushings to help keep unwanted gyrations at a minimum. Of course, for maximum enjoyment, you’ll definitely want to invest in a nice suspension to help your car tackle any curves that the road throws at you, and maybe even a nice set of wheels with sticky tires to help get the added power to the ground.

As you can see, the sky is the limit when it comes to performance modifications, but rather than feel pressured to do everything at once, if you opt instead to tackle these upgrades in manageable and workable chunks, you’ll find that you appreciate the merits of each set of upgrades more, and can satisfy your performance cravings for a lifetime.

Si hay alguno que la tenga muy clara con el inglès para traducirlo, le serà agradecido! Entiendo bastante pero no todo!!
En mi caso, seguramente otros nada, y otros todo!!! Los que si todos pueden ayudarnos por favor?

Este articulo apunta a sacarle la guita comprando filtros KN (180 pesos por una esponja!!!), remapeando la ECU, el poner un encendido repotenciado... y te quedaste sin un mango..... en algunas cosas esta OK con la teoria pero por momentos es un bla bla bla atomico... yo en vez de gastar compraria una moto 0Km moderna.
Una moto de pista esta tuneada al mango de fabrica (hablando de lo moderno) y es muy poco lo que se puede mejorar en potencia, no existen milagros aca. Las grandes marcas hacen lo imposible por sacarle uno o dos caballos con un motor y tecnologia de punta refinada al mango y aca se platean un monton de modificaciones... yo prefiero el silencio....

Pero si el articulo apunta al vehiculo convencional esta OK. En ese caso si le podes sacar unos cuantos HP ya que de fabrica un auto es para uso urbano y si queres hacerlo de competicion tenes para modificar un monton, dentro de lo que permite el motor...., y esas reformas hacen una diferencia grosa.

Este articulo apunta a sacarle la guita al boludo comprando filtros KN (170 dolares por una esponja!!!), remapeando la ECU, el poner un encendido repotenciado... y te quedaste sin un mango..... mira la verdad que en algunas cosas esta OK con la teoria pero por momentos es un bla bla bla atomico... yo compraria una moto 0Km moderna y chau!!!!
Una moto de pista esta tuneada al mango de fabrica (hablando de lo moderno) y es muy poco lo que se puede mejorar en potencia, no existen milagros aca. Las grandes marcas hacen lo imposible por sacarle uno o dos caballos con un motor y tecnologia de punta refinada al mango y este te viene con una verdura de modificaciones... yo prefiero el silencio....

Yo debo ser un perro verde en este foro...
Yo soy de la idea de si podes NO ponerle original, no se lo pongas...
Tambien soy de la idea, que si no podes bancar la moto, lease $, te hubieses comprado un ciclo... No conozco a nadie que haya hecho un cambio de filtro, un remapeo, y cambiado un encendido (Esto es un poco extremo como para algo tan basico) y haya tenido que vender la moto porque se haya quedado seco despues de ese 'despilfarro'... Tampoco un filtro K&N sale 170 dolares, en la mayoria de las aplicaciones un filtro K&N sale mas barato que uno original, y la calidad, el desarrollo, la confiabilidad, y la performance que te pueda ofrecer un K&N es mucho superior que a un filtro original.

No se de donde sacaste que las motos modernas estan exprimidas al mango y que no se le puede hacer nada para sacarle mas potencia... Por cuestiones ambientalistas, economicaS (Para el usuario), legales, y de diseño, la potencia de una moto viene muy limitada (Si te conformas con '180' HP...) por una puesta a punto muy 'conservadora'. Es muy facil llegar a los 200 pequeños ponies en una hayabusa con una preparacion muy basica, Stage I por ponerle un nombre, lease, sistema de escape, filtro, powercommander, eliminacion del sistema antipolucion, y algun que otro chiquitaje... Y tranquilamente podes hacerlo en la vereda sin necesidad de acudir a uno de esos Megamecanicos que nombran a veces... Salvo el escape, lo demas sale chirolas... Ojota, no es que sea rico, pero si tenes una Hayabusa, un 12r, una R1, o un 1000RR, no estas haciendo changas en la terminal de Retiro... Si queres seguir avanzando con las modificaciones, ahi la curva se vuelve exponencial... Es decir, a mayor plata 'invertida' la ganancia de potencia es menor...

Tal vez este equivocado...
Pero si tenes un 14, es de locos pensar que te vas a quedar con 180HP toda la vida...
Y tampoco es para venerar a los Japoneses... Porque no sacaron algo mejor que la Fat Man?...

A nivel escape si te doy la razon porque el original tiene que cumplir la norma de ruido permitido, en realidad la ganancia no solo esta en la cotrapresion, tambien esta en el peso que se reduce. Otro de los problemas es el ajuste empobrecido de la mezcla con el motor regulando o a bajas vueltas para cumplir la norma Euro3 de contaminacion, hubo quejas de usuarios, en muchos casos les rompio el motor, esas dos cosas (contaminacion y ruido) seria segun mi punto de vista lo que aportaria algo concreto.
Lo real es que la tecnologia de ahora con todos los refinamientos aplasta a lo viejo por mas que pongas lo NO ORIGINAL: "1109cc Wiseco forged pistons| Keihin FCR 41mm Carbies|NOS nitrous system|Schnitz Racing NC2000 Nitrous progressive controller|V&H SS-2r Exaust header w/o muffler|MRE Lock up clutch|Air shifter setup|+8" stretched swingarm|Upgraded clutch by Barnett" el motor del ZX11 tiene 25 años... , Ademas el peso reducido es otro factor de porque lo nuevo aplasta a lo viejo. Y tambien tenes que evaluar la durabilidad porque el sacarle 20 caballos, o un 100 % mas de potencia con nitro y que despues de un par de aceleradas se te rompa el motor no sirve tampoco..
El KN vale 60 dolares en bikebandit, era en pesos la cotizacion, el lugar que vos recomendaste pero si esta a 50 en otro lugar compralo ya???... yo por una esponja no pago ni 10...

El motor y sus componentes mas básicos pueden tener 25 años, pero los kits e implementos tienen la misma manufactura de hoy...
Decime si un motor de Falcon de tc es igual al de 1960....

Saludos

Chapu: si me hago de un rato te lo traduzco y lo publico traducido.

Alfred... los filtros K&N no son de esponja....estudie un poco mas y vuelva en marzo

Mira lo nuevo :

Valvulas de titanio ultralivianas, pistones ultralivianos con tratamiento antifriccion de teflon, arbol de levas de accion directa alivianado, block de cilindros con camisa integrada pra reducir peso y espacio (aca olvidate de encamisar o sea si se rompe cambia la pieza entera), motor de diseño triangular (embrague y caja levantada, no en linea como lo viejo), sistema de doble inyeccion, CPU de 32 bits, control digital total, cuadro y suspensiones moto GP... y mucho mas..

si si me parece que con un Falcon ultrapesado (Ford no moto Honda !) haces lo mismo... si especialmente en rally... guarda con la curva!!!....

Alfred... los filtros K&N no son de esponja....estudie un poco mas y vuelva en marzo

-----------------------

si es lavable es una especie de esponja (en la pagina dice que son de capas de gasa de algodon humedecidas en aceite):

* High Air Flow with Excellent Filtration
* Designed to Increase Horsepower and Acceleration ???(mandale esto a los japos y solucionaron el dilema de subirle la potencia a un motor!!.. jaja)
* Washable and Reusable
* Will NOT Void Vehicle Warranty
* Lasts up to 50,000 miles before cleaning is required depending on driving conditions (yo cada 1000 KM sopleteo el de carton de lo mugriento que esta!!!??)
* K&N Million Mile ??? Limited Warranty® (te moris al los 80 y el filtro sigue estando OK!!)
* Emissions Legal in all 50 US States.
* Economical, a K&N Air Filter Will Last the Life of Your Automobile, Motorcycle, or ATV
* Works with Original Equipment Manufacturer Vehicle Electronics
* Easy High Performance Add-on
* Environmentally Friendly

bla bla bla pero bue al que le gusta lo tuerca que le de para adelante... Ademas si original es de carton (el 1000RR trae dos cartuchos cilindricos para aumentar superficie de filtado) debe ser mejor.

Mira lo nuevo :

Valvulas de titanio ultralivianas, pistones ultralivianos con tratamiento antifriccion de teflon, arbol de levas de accion directa alivianado, block de cilindros con camisa integrada pra reducir peso y espacio (aca olvidate de encamisar o sea si se rompe cambia la pieza entera), motor de diseño triangular (embrague y caja levantada, no en linea como lo viejo), sistema de doble inyeccion, CPU de 32 bits, control digital total, cuadro y suspensiones moto GP... y mucho mas..

si si me parece que con un Falcon ultrapesado (Ford no moto Honda !) haces lo mismo... si especialmente en rally... guarda con la curva!!!....

La mia tiene valvulas con tratamiento de eucanuba parea evitar la intermitencia del paraflex...

Mira lo nuevo :

Valvulas de titanio ultralivianas, pistones ultralivianos con tratamiento antifriccion de teflon, arbol de levas de accion directa alivianado, block de cilindros con camisa integrada pra reducir peso y espacio (aca olvidate de encamisar o sea si se rompe cambia la pieza entera), motor de diseño triangular (embrague y caja levantada, no en linea como lo viejo), sistema de doble inyeccion, CPU de 32 bits, control digital total, cuadro y suspensiones moto GP... y mucho mas..

si si me parece que con un Falcon ultrapesado (Ford no moto Honda !) haces lo mismo... si especialmente en rally... guarda con la curva!!!....

La mia tiene valvulas con tratamiento de eucanuba parea evitar la intermitencia del paraflex...

Si el orgullo es mas fuerte que el avance tecnologogico... mira si los de KN dicen que con 60 dolares aumentas la potencia entonces no entiendo porque no les compran los mismos fabricantes... si es al pedo el titanio, el peso reducido, el motor ultratecnologico...
ponele un KN.... y tenes un sistema que aplasta a lo nuevo!!!

Alfredo: Cuando hablabas en tus artículos de temperatura era lo mismo el motor de tu ninja 600 comparado con el de una 600 moderna, los 30 cv de diferencia no eran un logro importante y esos 30 cv no requerían una disipación extra, para vos térmicamente es lo mismo un motor de combustión interna al que le extraes 80cv que otro al que le extraes 120... y ahora si lo son... (eras vos no?) asi y todo con tanto titanio, pistón ultra liviano, motor de diseño triangular etc seguimos con la falencia térmica excepto la cbr1000rr por que criticaste casi toodas las motos, entonces, lo viejo no es igual de malo a la nuevo? mejoraron en todo menos en un simple radiador, lo cual vos solucionaste en ¨radiadores carlitos..¨ de la esquina de tu casa...

Lo que llamas ultramoderno tiene 50 años de inventado...

saludos

Es inutil Fer, Kiwi tiene un serio problema de "envidia".

Alfredo, si tanta envidia te da que alguien tenga una moto mejor que la tuya, ponete a ahorrar y cambiala. Yo soy de los pocos (si no el unico) que te banca aca en el foro...pero debo decirte que ya estoy un poco cansado...

Ni siquiera se puede tener un intercambio de ideas con vos, ya que siempre terminas en la contradicción (de hecho es muy simple manejarte para que caigas en eso...)

El objetivo del post es que la gente que no tiene idea de como funciona un motor vaya aprendiendo algunos conceptos. En este articulo...se trata de como el flujo de aire se transforma en potencia.

El post no es para que te pongas a llorar porque no podes comprarte un filtro K&N... y peor trates de boludo al que si puede hacerlo.

Asi que si tenes algo positivo para aportar sobre el tema, bienvenido sea, si solo seran demostraciones de envidias y frustraciones, abrite otro post...

Alfredo: Cuando hablabas en tus artículos de temperatura era lo mismo el motor de tu ninja 600 comparado con el de una 600 moderna, los 30 cv de diferencia no eran un logro importante y esos 30 cv no requerían una disipación extra, para vos térmicamente es lo mismo un motor de combustión interna al que le extraes 80cv que otro al que le extraes 120... y ahora si lo son... (eras vos no?) asi y todo con tanto titanio, pistón ultra liviano, motor de diseño triangular etc seguimos con la falencia térmica excepto la cbr1000rr por que criticaste casi toodas las motos, entonces, lo viejo no es igual de malo a la nuevo? mejoraron en todo menos en un simple radiador, lo cual vos solucionaste en ¨radiadores carlitos..¨ de la esquina de tu casa...

Lo que llamas ultramoderno tiene 50 años de inventado...

saludos

No entendiste lo que puse. Lo que dije es que la moto vieja mia (Ninja 600) tenia un sistema deficiente de refrigeracion original, y que lo pista nuevo viene con un sistema mejorado, con magueras mas gruesas, mas caudal de bomba y mayor superficie de conveccion (radiador mas grande, curvo y mejorado).
Cuando hable de potencias decia que a bajas vueltas llendo tranquilo la potencia es la misma en lo viejo y lo nuevo, aca no hay aceleracion y exigencia solamente impulso minimo de movimiento y en mi moto se embalaba la temperatura por culpa de un mal diseño original.
Yo dentro de lo posible mejore el sistema viejo de la Ninja y esta explicado en ese post con mas de 2000 hits, el post ganador y ahi me di cuenta que son muchos los que tienen dramas con la temperatura.
Basarse en lo teorico fue mi objetivo y dejar de lado el marketing que promete el milagro... o sea ir directo al grano.

http://www.kawaclub.com.ar/foro/viewtopic.php?t=2586

Es inutil Fer, Kiwi tiene un serio problema de "envidia".

Alfredo, si tanta envidia te da que alguien tenga una moto mejor que la tuya, ponete a ahorrar y cambiala. Yo soy de los pocos (si no el unico) que te banca aca en el foro...pero debo decirte que ya estoy un poco cansado...

Ni siquiera se puede tener un intercambio de ideas con vos, ya que siempre terminas en la contradicción (de hecho es muy simple manejarte para que caigas en eso...)

El objetivo del post es que la gente que no tiene idea de como funciona un motor vaya aprendiendo algunos conceptos. En este articulo...se trata de como el flujo de aire se transforma en potencia.

El post no es para que te pongas a llorar p orque no podes comprarte un filtro K&N... y peor trates de boludo al que si puede hacerlo.

Asi que si tenes algo positivo para aportar sobre el tema, bienvenido sea, si solo seran demostraciones de envidias y frustraciones, abrite otro post...

No creo que sea un problema capacidad de ahorro nomas, aca en Argentina no existen condiciones coherentes a nivel precios y para la gente comun eso significa el no ser poseedor del progreso. Claro el que tiene plata es distinto pero no creo que un pista es de "gente de plata nomas"... (comparandolo con un pais serio y progresista). No es envida, ni tampoco me parece que sea un problema grave eso. Aca el problema es que las motos son viejas... para no decir basura atomica!.... algo mencionado por los gallegos comparando la Argentina con Europa. El unico que compro nuevo es chapu y algun otro por ahi pero el porcentaje general esta con lo viejo... y no pasa por lo estetico nomas, creo que lo que aporta avance es lo tecnologico...
A nivel intercambio de ideas nadie es dueño de la verdad, pero muchas veces el orgullo hace de lo ridiculo la verdad, yo nunca me agrande con mi moto y mantengo el perfil bajo y humilde, trato de aportar desde lo teorico y cierto, el reconocer lo real seria mi filosofia.
Ese articulo que pusite Fernando lo veo bien a nivel opinion y consejos, pero no aporta nada espectacular, ni siquiera es util ya que gran parte trata de lo tecnologico a inyeccion, ademas a nivel motos esta implementado de fabrica la maxima mejora...
Pero lo viejo es viejo, antiprogresista, y punto.

VOLVERA LA ARGENTINA A LO TECNOLOGICO Y PROGRESISTA?